Friday, 3 January 2014

Chablis 1er Cru, Mont de Milieu, 2008 from Billaud-Simon

A quick mention now for a good little find at the Co-op. I've mentioned before that this local shop isn't great at knowing what it's got on the shelves. Just before Christmas I spotted this premier Cru and took a quick look. I wasn't too bothered at first, as the price was reasonable, but not a bargain for the 2010 vintage (£18). However, As I looked, I noticed the 2008 and 2009 vintages still at the back of the shelves (at the same price). what's even better was these wines were in racks, laid on their sides. I decided to pick up the oldest to give it a whirl.

This little beaut is exactly what you'd want in a Chablis. A fairly strong lemon colour, almost gold and with a green hue to it. Bright and clear, very inviting. A nose of good intensity, was classical. Citric lemons and apples up front, with clean and crisp mineral stone, or wet slate, in support. There was a buttery richness too, and what seemed like a little oak. The richness could have come from malolactic fermentation or lees-stirring/aging, but I've no idea on the oak, as I'm sure this wine should have been tank fermented and aged. I guess these are simply the result of good bottle age. The fruit was very present on the palate, but was more apple and pears. The depth of flavour was great, the kind that often gets described as round, or fat, really lovely. The cooler-climate acidity and freshness then came in, moving towards the finish. Not too much, well balanced and very refreshing after the previous rich texture. The finish was lingering, although not very long, and contained remnants of the pleasant fruit.

All-in-all a good example of what Chablis should be. I've seen plenty of other premier Cru Chablis at a far greater price than this, and for less bottle age than this 2008, or even the 2009. The 'Mont de Milieu' vineyard could be the reason why this is so nice. It's one of the better-situated premier Crus, being just to the east of the Grand Cru block, with an almost equal southern exposure on the next hill over. Billaud-Simon is a reliable Domaine, and did a great job with this fruit. If there's some of the 2009 left next pay day I may go get some, as I now know that Jancis R. reckons it to be better than the 2008. You should too!

1 comment:

  1. Just read this after picking up a couple of bottles of the 2008 at my Co-op for £7. Seriously underpriced!